Space Invaders dress

Can you tell I'm super excited about this dress? It has Space Invaders! How cool is that?  I found this fabric at Levana in Levin last year. I only got a meter and initially it was going to be a hoodie or a casual top. The fabric is a bit weird - it was oddly stiff (luckily it got softer after a wash) when bought and the pattern is actually printed on white fabric! It doesn't look good when stretched. When at Levana I also got this green cotton jersey - it provided the best match for the space invaders fabric.

One evening, just after finishing my first Philippa dress I decided I needed more dresses like that in my wardrobe. After going through my stash I found several fabric combinations that would work well. You might see this pattern made up few more times ;) Since both of my fabrics are stretchy I omitted the zip and cut the back on fold. I finished the neckline and armholes with bands made of green jersey. And because I used the overlocker to put it together my new dress was ready to wear in about an hour! I love when that happens!

I wish I used clear elastic to reinforce the seams. They tend to sag a little bit. For that reason the pockets are not super usable. But it's not really going to make me stop wearing this dress - I love it! It also receives a lot of comments once people realize it Space Invaders ;)
Big thanks to Kat and Kirsten - we met to have brunch, took some photos, visited The Fabric Store and Wellington Chocolate Factory. Because one thing we love as much as sewing is chocolate!

New favourite!

Philippa dress by Muse Patterns is definitely my new favourite dress to wear. If it was acceptable I'd wear it every single day! It's not a secret that I am a huge fan of Muse patterns. Kat is a brilliant designer and there is always something interesting and different about her patterns. I was a tester for Philippa and it definitely boosted my sewjo - having the deadline really made me push myself. 

Muse patterns always come with multiple options. My Philippa is collared with cut-away shoulders and pockets - because pockets are awesome. I also cut mini length. If you look closely enough you will see that my dress has a shoulder "design feature". Do you want a sewing tip? When using oddly-shaped leftover fabric from a different project make sure that you lay your pattern pieces over two layers of fabric! I only realized that one of my shoulders is missing after assembling side panels and stitching side seams. I needed a creative fix so I used black fabric to create mini-yokes to cover my mistake. But no one will know by by just looking :D

Since the sizing has changed for Muse patterns I spent a moment figuring out my size. My measurements put me between size 36 and 38. Since the dress is supposed to be fitted I decided to make size 38 with a D-cup option. I did end up taking the dress in around my waist - I deepened the front seams by 4-5 cm. That was pretty much the only adjustment I made*. Next time I will lower the bust point by 1-1,5 cm. And yes, there will be next time, probably many next times! 

* I lied, sorry! I completely forgot that the first change I did was shortening the bodice by 3,5 cm just above the waistline! I'm only 160 cm and Muse patterns are drafted for taller ladies :)

I used an abstract print cotton sateen bought at the fabric sale last year for my main fabric. I paired it up with some black polyester that has very similar qualities - slightly stretchy and with nice sheen to it. The design is perfect for contrasting fabrics! What I absolutely love is the collar. They usually make me look very top-heavy but not this one! I guess it is because the neckline is a bit lower that normally in the collared tops or dresses.

Anyway, if you can't already tell - I absolutely love this dress! And every single time I wore it I got compliments, including a completely random person on the street telling me that my dress was awesome! Not a bad outcome, right?

Dress of a million seams

And I'm not even joking about the number of seams! Just look at the technical drawing ;) Melissa dress is super lovely and has many interesting design features (just check out those little pockets!) I was one of the testers for this pattern last year and I've been meaning to give it another go.

I made a huge mistake with my fabric choice... Poly-rayon suiting looked alright and had nice drape but frayed like crazy! It has also absolutely no give and I was too afraid of clipping it around the curves. All the seams are finished with a combination of black and mint bias tape which added a huge amount of extra work but super tidy finish. My poly-rayon wasn't easy to press either, there was a very fine line between pressing and melting the fabric.

As for the dress itself - the back V insert is a great opportunity to use scraps of lace or "statement" fabrics. I used some black lace generously given to me by Sandra. As for the fit - I chose size 40 with D-cup and there was no need for FBA :D  The first time I made Melissa I didn't change anything and the waistline was way too low. This time I moved it up by 7 cm (I think) and it's a too high! The other change I made was getting rid of a top V pocket. I almost always have to adjust shoulder line and scoop out a bit of the top of the shoulder princess seam and that pocket would make the fitting quite hard. And there was just one more change - I made my dress sleeveless. I couldn't face dealing with more bias bound seams! The collar took three tries to get it right - including me sewing the collar inside out *facepalm* By that time I was a bit over and the dress ended in a naughty corner for a few weeks.

When I got over the collar, the rest went nice and easy. I used black buttons with gold metal ring and I like the way they look. Overall I like the dress but I'm not crazy about it. Lower waistline and different fabric would make a huge difference and I suspect I might give this pattern another try ;)

 

Have you met Sophie?

Would you like to see my latest project? Here is it:

Sophie cardigan is the newest family member of Muse Patterns. It has raglan sleeves and it comes with several options - three necklines, two types of pockets and two different closures to choose from. It means you can make this cardi gazillion* times and nobody will know you used same pattern ;)

*I might have exaggerated  a bit here

Sophie was an easy make. Instructions are detailed and they include drawings. I chose V-neck zip up version with patch pockets. The pattern is designed for those lucky tall ladies and I am only 160 cm so I had to take some length off. I took 5 cm intentionally and then another few accidentally ;) I shortened sleeves by 7 cm which means they are now too short - when will I learn to measure twice and cut once???

According to my measurements I should have made size 42 but my high-bust measurement suggested going down two sizes.
I made size 38 with 5 cm partial FBA with no added length...
That created a dart...
That dart took some length off the side seam...

Can you see where I am going with it?  I completely forgot that it will make the side shorter therefore I should have added that length or adjust the back piece. I ended up with a cardi that is shorter than intended. There is an old saying in Polish that covers it perfectly - 'A Pole is wise after the event!'

I used some mysterious but very very pretty fabric I got during The Fabric Warehouse sale last year. It is textures and a bit stretchy but quite stable. That watercolour floral print is absolutely amazing and I regret not buying more. The only reason it's been sitting in  my stash for almost a year is that I couldn't decide what to make with it! I wanted a dress, then a jacket, skirt and trousers ;)

This is not the last Sophie you will see here. It is such a versatile pattern. I especially love Jenna's version. Isn't it gorgeous? I might have to go fabric shopping - Sophie would look awesome in royal blue merino, right?

Sorry for stupid face but I realized I didn't take a photo wearing this cardi open ;)